12/3/2023 0 Comments Darktable auto white balance![]() set white balance module to 'camera reference'. white balance module is set to 'user defined'. 'white balance applied twice' is displayed in color calibration and white balance module. ![]() The raw preview got the what the scene looked like pretty well, just needs some exposure adjustments and I would want to add a mask around my friends to bright them up a bit. Change to darktable: Image still looks ok. The clouds ended up tinted weirdly blue and the rest of the scene still has too much red in I think. It’s not very well framed as my friends were moving too fast for me! Here’s one that has given me particular issue. If there’s something definitely white in the picture I’ll use that to pick the whitebalance. I have a problem where ‘color calibration’ modern color workflow seems to produce results quite a bit of :). I don’t have a problem getting good skin tone. I just use the color picker tool then try and fiddle until it looks about right. I don’t see a correlation between people trying to get a skintone-result they want with Lightroom, and the difference results between Darktable’s legacy or modern color workflows. I have a feeling I’m not really using the color calibration module properly. The odd thing sometimes in a photoset dt seems to get the right wb first go. I wonder if I’ve changed a setting on my camera by accident? I don’t remember this being such a problem before (a few months ago). Going back to some of my older unedited pics, they have the same issue. I’m really struggling to use colour calibration to get a similar whitebalance to what the jpeg displays (which is usually right.) However, I’ve started to notice that all my photos have a reddish hue to them when imported to the darkroom. Recently I got my first new lens (the Panasonic 14-140) and have been playing around with it. And trying to pick a patch you want to be neutral in your image also helps.I’m still fairly new to DT and have been really enjoying 3.6. This method will not work for artificial scenes, for example those with painted 's method of dropping the saturation of the illuminant after using the eyedropper usually works for me as well. priort: Aren’t the only real Fuji colors the ones that come out of the camera JPG. This method relies on the “gray-world” assumption, which predicts that the average color of a natural scene will be neutral. In this case, the algorithm finds the average color within the chosen area and sets that color as the illuminant. Use the color picker (to the right of the color patch) to select a neutral color from the image or, if one is unavailable, select the entire image. There are four options available in the CAT tab to set these parameters manually: The default illuminant and color space used by the chromatic adaptation are initialised from the Exif metadata of the RAW file. A bit lower (on the page you quoted from) it goes on to say: what’s used when you do nothing but activating the module. Exactly what it is supposed to : The text from the manual you quoted is the “default” setting, i.e. You can also target any of the modules towards parts of your image by setting the Blend to Parametric Mask. On images like the one above, with one dominant colour, less so, as the algo will try to get rid of the excess green. The Color Balance module lets you adjust each of the RGB channels independently, though not with the same interface as Levels. On a lot of images, using the whole image to get the white balance works fine. I don’t know what you expect those automatic modes to do, but all they can try is to get the selected area as close to neutral (gray) as possible. ![]() If on the off chance it is not corrected enough then bump the saturation slider in CC custom … to add more correction… you could tweak the hue if needed but its usually in the ballpark such that you just need to tweak how much is applied… I find this the most usual case as it will usually be over corrected with this method to some extent. ![]() I find if you have to resort to this as you don’t have a good wb or a neutral object then just switch to custom after doing the “auto” wb on the whole image and slowly drop the saturation. If you have an image with strong cast from foliage etc selecting the whole image source for neutral will usually over correct in some manner. I think calling spot wb auto wb is a misnomer. only the correction of Highlight White Balance is necessary. history - select altered or not altered photos (this include photos with auto-applied presets). Using a selected CAT… CC is using the data from the input profile and d65 reference values to attempt to manipulate color as described here… with the potential to mask that effect. Due to last minute bug fixes, darktable 3.2 will begin directly with a 3.2.1 release. This is what it is attempting to do… basically as AP has said himself…ignore all the K values when WB this way
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